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Ellen von Unwerth at the celebration of the global launch of the 2012 Pirelli Calendar by Mario Sorrenti gala dinner at the Park Avenue Armory on December 6, 2011 in New York City Ellen von Unwerth is one of the most prolific photographers in the fashion and entertainment industry. She was born in Frankfurt, Germany in 1954, and worked as a model after being discovered on the street in Munich. Von Unwerth modeled in Munich, then relocated to Paris to sign with Elite. “I modelled all over the world for about 10 years while living in Paris, and then one day, when I was about to leave for another shoot in Kenya, my boyfriend gave me a camera,” Von Unwerth said. (Business of Fashion) She then decided to work behind the lens, and believes her modeling played an important role in molding her talent as a photographer.
As a model she observed the photographers’ techniques, and as a photographer she believed it was essential to identify with the characters the model portrayed in order to convey a certain mood or meaning. Kristen McMenamy photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Vogue Italia (1997) “Being in front of the lens, you are very vulnerable.
It’s not a nice feeling, and I don’t miss it. But it’s very helpful to know exactly what it’s like.
When I was a model I hated when I wasn’t allowed to move, so I love movement and I encourage my subjects to play around, to move and to be silly.” Von Unwerth believes that having fun is to be in control, “which is the most important thing: a woman should fight for that.”. Kate Moss photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Vogue (2000) Naomi Campbell photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Vogue (1991) Von Unwerth is known for creating images full of provocative sensuality, powerful femininity, eroticism, as well as elegance.
She is skillful at emphasizing the loveliness of a woman through the elements of fantasy, humor and playfulness. The images intend to entice the observer, and normally include a narrative character. Naomi Campbell in ‘Supernatural Lady’ photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (1991). Kate Moss photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Vogue Italia (1992) “I love women who are playful and fun,” von Unwerth says. “I love sexy, intelligent women.
Sexiness is hard to define. Of course a woman can be beautiful, but I think it’s something in the eyes. It’s a woman saying something secretive, something in her eyes that’s almost animalistic.” (faded and blurred) Devon Aoki photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Interview Magazine (2001) Devon Aoki photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Interview Magazine (2001) Devon Aoki photographed by Ellen von Unwerth for Interview Magazine (2001) Von Unwerth found fame when she photographed Claudia Schiffer for Guess? In 1989 (which also catapulted Schiffer into supermodeldom.) Since then she has been published in Vogue, Vanity Fair, Interview, The Face, Arena, Twill, L’Uomo Vogue and I-D. She also went on to shoot campaigns for Dior, John Galliano, Miu Miu, Thierry Mugler, and Ralph Lauren.
She has done promotional work for Duran Duran, Rihanna, Beyonce, Janet Jackson, and Britney Spears, among others. She has directed music videos, such as Beyonce’s “Year of 4,” Duran Duran’s “Femme Fatale,” and Salt N Pepa’s “Ain’t Nuthin but a She Thang.” Claudia Schiffer for Guess photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (1989) Claudia Schiffer for Guess photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (1990) Claudia Schiffer for Guess photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (1989). Von Unwerth said the difference between her work and the work of male photographers was “that I don’t stand behind the camera drooling. I think that women open up more to a female photographer. It’s like little girls playing around. You can be a bit naughty and do things you wouldn’t do in front of boys.
It’s more relaxed somehow. I think it’s an empowering experience – and no, I don’t believe they are objectified.” (faded and blurred) In the Playdate exhibition (2013), von Unwerth puts fetishistic, humorous, romantic, decadent, and erotic sex at the forefront. The images intend to evoke feelings of fun within the photograph and for the viewer, who the models “tease, taunt, and provoke.” The photographs capture the female version of the sexual provocateur as a playful instigator instead of an object of lust. Rihanna in Berlin photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (2009) ‘Meow’ photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (2011) ‘Meow II’ photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (2012) ‘Fallen Party Angel’ photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (2012) ‘White Bunny’ photographed by Ellen von Unwerth (2012) “Women are not just there to be admired, they are there to be enjoyed.” – Ellen von Unwerth Von Unwerth prefers film to digital, and shoots with a 35mm camera.